Hunter Irrigation Valves: 6 Essential Models That Control Your Water Flow
Last updated: August 2025 | Reading time: 9 minutes
Quick Summary: Hunter irrigation valves are the workhorses of your sprinkler system, controlling water flow to each zone. Understanding valve types, installation, and troubleshooting can save hundreds in repair costs and prevent landscape damage from irrigation failures.
What are Hunter Irrigation Valves?
Hunter irrigation valves are electro-mechanical devices that control water flow to individual irrigation zones in your sprinkler system. Each valve receives electrical signals from your irrigation controller and opens or closes to start and stop watering for specific areas of your landscape.
These precision-engineered valves feature Hunter’s renowned reliability and are designed to operate flawlessly for years under Australian conditions, from extreme heat to varying water pressures and quality.
How Hunter Irrigation Valves Work
Basic Operation Principle
Solenoid Activation: When your irrigation controller sends a 24-volt AC signal, the solenoid creates a magnetic field that lifts a plunger inside the valve.
Diaphragm Action: The plunger releases water pressure above a flexible diaphragm, causing the diaphragm to lift and allow main water flow through the valve.
Zone Watering: Water flows through the open valve to sprinkler heads in that specific zone until the controller signal stops.
Automatic Closure: When the electrical signal ends, the plunger drops, water pressure builds above the diaphragm, and the valve closes, stopping water flow.
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Hunter Irrigation Valve Models
Hunter ICV Series (In-Line Valves)
Best for: Residential installations, easy maintenance access
- Sizes: 3/4″, 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-1/2″, 2″
- Pressure: 10-200 PSI operating range
- Features: Removable top, easy servicing, flow control
- Ideal Use: Most residential and light commercial applications
Hunter PGV Series (Professional Grade)
Best for: Commercial applications, high-pressure systems
- Sizes: 3/4″, 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-1/2″, 2″, 3″
- Pressure: 15-250 PSI operating range
- Features: Heavy-duty construction, stainless steel springs
- Ideal Use: Commercial landscapes, high-pressure systems
Hunter ICV-HP Series (High Pressure)
Best for: Systems with very high pressure requirements
- Sizes: 3/4″, 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-1/2″
- Pressure: 25-300 PSI operating range
- Features: Reinforced diaphragm, high-pressure components
- Ideal Use: High-rise buildings, pressure-boosted systems
Hunter Globe Valves (Angle Pattern)
Best for: Space-constrained installations, specific flow patterns
- Sizes: 3/4″, 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-1/2″
- Pressure: 10-200 PSI operating range
- Features: 90-degree flow pattern, compact design
- Ideal Use: Tight spaces, specific piping configurations
Hunter DCV Series (Diaphragm Control Valves)
Best for: Large commercial applications, master valve use
- Sizes: 2″, 3″, 4″, 6″, 8″
- Pressure: 25-250 PSI operating range
- Features: Pilot-operated, large flow capacity
- Ideal Use: Master valves, large commercial systems
Choosing the Right Hunter Valve
Residential Applications
Standard Home Irrigation (3/4″ – 1-1/4″): Hunter ICV series provides excellent reliability and easy maintenance for most residential installations.
Large Properties (1-1/2″ – 2″): Hunter ICV or PGV series depending on pressure requirements and zone flow demands.
Commercial Applications
Light Commercial: Hunter PGV series offers professional-grade reliability with enhanced durability features.
Heavy Commercial: Hunter DCV series for large zones requiring high flow rates and maximum reliability.
Pressure Considerations
Standard Pressure (30-80 PSI): Hunter ICV series handles most residential pressure ranges effectively.
High Pressure (80-200 PSI): Hunter PGV or ICV-HP series designed for elevated pressure conditions.
Very High Pressure (200+ PSI): Hunter ICV-HP series specifically engineered for extreme pressure applications.
Hunter Valve Installation Guide
Pre-Installation Planning
Valve Box Selection: Choose appropriately sized valve boxes to accommodate valves plus service clearance. Allow space for future maintenance access.
Depth Requirements: Install valves below frost line (typically 300-450mm deep in most Australian regions) to prevent freeze damage.
Drainage Considerations: Ensure valve boxes have adequate drainage to prevent water accumulation and valve damage.
Installation Process
- Excavate Valve Location: Dig hole large enough for valve box plus working space around valve
- Install Valve Box: Set valve box level with surrounding grade, ensuring lid access isn’t obstructed
- Connect Supply Pipe: Install supply line to valve inlet using appropriate fittings and pipe sealant
- Connect Zone Piping: Attach downstream piping to valve outlet leading to sprinkler heads
- Install Valve: Mount valve in box ensuring adequate clearance for maintenance access
- Connect Control Wires: Attach low-voltage control wires to valve solenoid terminals
- Test Operation: Manually test valve operation before backfilling and system startup
- Backfill and Grade: Carefully backfill around valve box, maintaining proper drainage
Professional Installation Recommended: Proper valve installation requires understanding of hydraulics, electrical connections, and local codes. Contact us for professional installation.
Valve Wiring and Electrical Connections
Control Wire Specifications
Wire Gauge: Use 14 AWG multi-conductor cable for most residential applications
Wire Count: One common wire plus one control wire per valve (e.g., 7-wire cable for 6-valve system)
Burial Depth: Bury control wires at least 150mm deep, following local electrical codes
Wiring Best Practices
Waterproof Connections: Use waterproof wire connectors (wire nuts) designed for direct burial applications.
Wire Splicing: Make all wire connections inside valve boxes for easy access and troubleshooting.
Labeling: Label all wires clearly to identify which valve each wire controls for future maintenance.
Spare Wire: Include spare wires in cable runs for future expansion or wire failure backup.
Hunter Valve Maintenance
Seasonal Maintenance Schedule
Spring Startup (September-October):
- Manually test each valve operation
- Check for leaks around valve body and fittings
- Clean debris from valve boxes
- Verify proper electrical connections
Summer Monitoring (November-February):
- Weekly visual inspection during system operation
- Check for signs of valve malfunction (continuous running, no operation)
- Monitor water pressure and flow rates
- Clear vegetation growth around valve boxes
Autumn Service (March-April):
- Deep clean valve boxes and drainage
- Inspect valve diaphragms for wear
- Test solenoid electrical resistance
- Document any needed repairs for winter service
Winter Maintenance (May-August):
- Disassemble and service problematic valves
- Replace worn diaphragms and internal components
- Test and replace faulty solenoids
- Plan system expansions or modifications
Preventive Maintenance Tasks
Annual Diaphragm Inspection: Remove valve top and inspect diaphragm for cracks, mineral buildup, or wear that could cause valve failure.
Solenoid Testing: Test solenoid electrical resistance (typically 20-60 ohms) to identify failing components before complete failure.
Flow Control Adjustment: Adjust valve flow control to optimize pressure and flow for each zone’s specific requirements.
Troubleshooting Hunter Valve Problems
Valve Won’t Turn On
Possible Causes:
- Faulty solenoid (most common)
- Broken control wire
- Controller programming issue
- Low voltage at valve
Diagnostic Steps:
- Test solenoid with multimeter (should read 20-60 ohms)
- Check voltage at valve during operation (should be 24VAC)
- Verify controller programming and fuse condition
- Inspect wire connections for corrosion or damage
Solutions:
- Replace solenoid if resistance is incorrect
- Repair or replace damaged control wires
- Reprogram controller or replace if faulty
- Clean connections and apply dielectric grease
Valve Won’t Turn Off
Possible Causes:
- Debris under diaphragm
- Torn or warped diaphragm
- Stuck solenoid plunger
- Excessive downstream pressure
Diagnostic Steps:
- Turn off controller and check if valve closes
- Remove valve top and inspect diaphragm
- Check for debris in valve chamber
- Test solenoid plunger movement
Solutions:
- Clean debris from valve chamber and diaphragm area
- Replace damaged diaphragm
- Replace faulty solenoid assembly
- Install pressure regulation if pressure is excessive
Low Water Pressure from Valve
Possible Causes:
- Partially clogged valve screen
- Flow control set too low
- Undersized valve for application
- Upstream pressure problems
Diagnostic Steps:
- Check flow control adjustment
- Remove and inspect internal screen
- Measure upstream water pressure
- Compare valve size to zone requirements
Solutions:
- Clean or replace internal screen
- Adjust flow control to increase flow
- Upgrade to larger valve if undersized
- Address upstream pressure issues
Valve Cycling On and Off
Possible Causes:
- Electrical interference or poor connections
- Controller malfunction
- Solenoid overheating
- Voltage fluctuations
Diagnostic Steps:
- Check all electrical connections for tightness
- Test with different controller zone
- Monitor voltage stability during operation
- Check for nearby electrical interference sources
Solutions:
- Tighten all electrical connections
- Replace controller if malfunctioning
- Replace overheating solenoid
- Install electrical surge protection
Valve Replacement Guidelines
When to Replace vs Repair
Replace Valve When:
- Valve body is cracked or damaged
- Multiple internal components have failed
- Valve is significantly undersized for current needs
- Repair costs approach replacement cost
Repair Valve When:
- Only diaphragm or solenoid needs replacement
- Valve body and major components are in good condition
- Simple cleaning or adjustment resolves issues
- Valve size is appropriate for application
Replacement Process
- System Shutdown: Turn off water supply and irrigation controller
- Drain Lines: Open downstream manual drains or sprinkler heads to relieve pressure
- Disconnect Wiring: Remove electrical connections, noting wire positions
- Remove Old Valve: Cut or unthread valve from piping system
- Install New Valve: Connect new valve using appropriate fittings and sealants
- Reconnect Wiring: Attach control wires to new valve solenoid
- Test Operation: Verify proper valve operation before covering
Water Quality and Valve Performance
Hard Water Considerations
Mineral Buildup Prevention: Regular cleaning and descaling extends valve life in areas with hard water or high mineral content.
Component Selection: Choose valves with stainless steel components for better corrosion resistance in harsh water conditions.
Filtration Benefits
Screen Filters: Install upstream filtration to prevent debris from damaging valve internal components.
Water Treatment: Consider water treatment systems for extremely hard or chemically treated water supplies.
Keep Your Irrigation System Running Smoothly
Ensure reliable irrigation performance with quality Hunter valves and professional installation. From residential gardens to commercial landscapes, we have the right valve solution.
Shop Hunter Irrigation Valves
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Frequently Asked Questions
How long do Hunter irrigation valves typically last?
With proper maintenance, Hunter valves typically last 8-15 years in residential applications. Commercial applications or harsh water conditions may require more frequent replacement.
Can I repair a Hunter valve myself?
Basic maintenance like diaphragm replacement is DIY-friendly, but electrical troubleshooting and installation should be done by qualified professionals for safety and warranty compliance.
Why does my valve keep running after the controller turns off?
This usually indicates debris under the diaphragm or a damaged diaphragm. Turn off water supply and disassemble valve top to inspect and clean internal components.
What causes a valve to short cycle (turn on and off repeatedly)?
Short cycling typically results from electrical problems like loose connections, controller issues, or voltage fluctuations. Check all electrical connections first.
How do I know what size valve I need?
Valve size should match your pipe size and flow requirements. Most residential applications use 3/4″ to 1-1/4″ valves, while larger properties may need 1-1/2″ or 2″ valves.
Can I install multiple valves in one valve box?
Yes, but ensure adequate space for maintenance access. Large valve boxes can accommodate 2-4 valves depending on size and local codes.
What’s the difference between Hunter ICV and PGV valves?
ICV valves are designed for residential use with easy maintenance access, while PGV valves offer commercial-grade construction for demanding applications.
Why is my valve box always full of water?
This usually indicates poor drainage, a leaking valve, or damaged valve box. Improve drainage and check valve seals to resolve water accumulation.
About Hunter Irrigation Australia: We’re Australia’s leading supplier of Hunter irrigation products, offering professional installation, expert advice, and ongoing support for residential and commercial irrigation systems. Contact us for valve selection assistance and professional installation services.
